Exploring Ensenada: A 60-Day Adventure in Baja California, Mexico
- Abbey Seeley
- Feb 17
- 14 min read
Updated: Feb 23
Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
After departing from Los Angeles on December 10, 2024, we arrived in the vibrant coastal city of Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico, where we would unexpectedly settle in for a two-month stay. From December 13 to February 8, 2025, we balanced work on our boat, Atlantean (who was out of the water getting her bottom painted), with the joys of exploring the bustling Baja California city. While our home was on the hard, we discovered many hidden culinary gems, made unexpected trips back to the United States, and absorbed the city’s relaxed energy.
Baja Naval Boatyard
If you're curious about the technical details of the work done on Atlantean, you're welcome to visit our Instagram or Facebook pages, where Adam explains everything in detail. In this blog post and all my other posts, you won't find that kind of information because I, Abbey, grasp everything enough to understand it for myself but won't pretend to explain it all as if I know what I'm talking about.
With that being said, Baja Naval workers installed a ladder to allow us access to our belongings and work inside while she was out of the water. At first, during the initial weeks, we didn't spend much time in the yard, but by the second month, we recognized there was a lot we could and should be doing.
A major reason for not spending much time at the yard in the first couple of weeks was because they were undertaking some intense tasks, such as sanding Atlantean's bottom down to fiberglass, and we didn't necessarily want to be around the airborne fiberglass.
Adam completed many jobs. To mention a few, he fixed a rip in the mainsail, figured out our shower situation in the head, and installed a lot of convenient lighting in places such as our hanging locker and clothing lockers. He also replaced the starter motor, which was why our engine wouldn't work the day we hauled out (mentioned in the previous post). The organization of the nails and screws, as shown in the image below, were what Adam likes to call a "good Abbey job".
The Stays
Tiny Casa with Nani
Our first Airbnb stay was at a location called Tiny Casa, where our host, Nani, ended up becoming a friend of ours. The house was situated 0.8 miles from the boatyard in a lively area of town, close to Parque Revolución and surrounded by amazing restaurants. Day and night, you could hear live music from the park and fitness classes at the gym a couple of buildings down, where we ended up getting temporary memberships.
As the name suggests, the place was indeed a tiny home situated beside a residential property. Nani, our host, as well as the house's creator and designer, is engaged in a project inspired by his love for the Baja coast and the Sea of Cortez. He is developing numerous tiny homes with the aim of positioning them along the Baja for rental purposes. Click on the button below to check out his amazing work!
I regret not taking more photos, but the house featured a happy and bright color palette and a wood-fired heater. Nani's father, who lives in the adjacent house, kindly provided us with ample wood as it got quite cold at night. The compact kitchen was centrally located between the living room and the bathroom on the other side. The bed was situated above the bathroom, accessible by a small staircase on the side. A large window at one end offered a great light source, and the home was adorned with numerous green plants.
One of my favorite parts of the place was Yoyo, the family dog who watched over the house during the day. He barked at everyone passing by but never at us. I could sense his appreciation for our attention (provided only through the fence) as he eagerly approached us whenever we returned home.
Funny Bit
During a conversation with Nani's father, we discussed our sailing plans, and he mentioned that years ago, he had spent time on Jacques Cousteau's boat, Calypso, during his professional career.
Hearing this was quite amazing, and if you don't know Jacques Cousteau, you might recognize the movie Life Aquatic by Wes Anderson. Released in 2004, the film stars Bill Murray as Steve Zissou, an eccentric oceanographer. Zissou is both a parody of and homage to French diving pioneer Jacques Cousteau, to whom the film is dedicated. Wes Anderson is one of Adam's favorite directors, and Adam loves this movie in particular. One day, during our time in Ensenada, Adam shared a message with me from his former colleague. It included the following photo in response to one of Adam's posts.
Notice a resemblance??
Artist Cabana
Since our stay on land in Ensenada was longer than expected, we had to find another place since Nani's popular Airbnb was already booked. We were bummed to leave as it was such a convenient and fun location, but we ended up finding another place just over a mile from the boatyard that seemed to fit our needs. Although we had to say goodbye to Yoyo, the new home owner did have two cats, a mother and kitten, that were very friendly with us.
The new location was larger, and I joked that we should leave quickly before we became accustomed to having so much space. As shown in the images below, the house was previously occupied by an artist, who decorated it in their unique style.
This spot was ideal for us to begin the large task of provisioning Atlantean. Since it was something we had never done before, we planned it out in great detail and wanted to have the boat stocked for a good amount of time. Luckily, there is a Costco in Ensenada, where we completed most of our shopping. We also shopped at El Roble and Soriana Hiper.
The Food
Adam and I were taken aback by the quality of food in Ensenada. During the first couple of weeks, we lost track of how often one of us exclaimed, "This is the best ____ I've ever had!" It felt as though everything was crafted with love and with the freshest ingredients in the world. If you plan on visiting Ensenada, be prepared to enjoy the best food you've ever had.
Several places were memorable—Nani recommended Boules, an upscale restaurant across from our first Airbnb, where we dined with the owner on our second visit and had the most fantastic octopus tacos. It was also where we first tried a drink made of coffee and Coca-Cola, something new to Adam and me, but surprisingly enjoyable! A fellow boater at the yard suggested Cevicheria, which we visited multiple times to enjoy their excellent ceviche. El Guero, another ceviche stand that draws people from afar, and El Pasia, a taco shop down the street offering incredible, affordable tacos, particularly the carne asada, which we returned for repeatedly. For me, the food in Ensenada was a major highlight, and if you've been following our social media, you probably could have guessed that!
La Bufadora
La Bufadora ranks among the top tourist spots in Ensenada. Once, with a rental car, we set out to see it at sunset, and it did not disappoint. The journey itself was lovely, with clouds rolling in and creating a radiant atmosphere. Rain began to fall just as we parked and strolled past the vendors towards the cliff's edge. Our timing was perfect, with the sun casting a breathtaking glow over the scene. As the unedited photo below shows, it was magical.
Walking & Ensenada Fitness Memberships
Our first Airbnb was located less than a mile from the boat yard, and on the first day, we walked there with six bags of luggage consisting of clothes and all the contents of our fridge and freezer. Staying active in Ensenada was crucial for us. As mentioned, our initial Airbnb was only steps away from Ensenada Fitness, an excellent, spacious gym with late-night hours, free water, and even a coffee shop inside. It was fantastic, and I spent many days working on my upper body strength, determined to get stronger to improve my sailing skills because pulling on those lines can be tough.
At first, we were walking around town, Adam in flip flops and me wearing Tevas, and we noticed we didn't see a single other person wearing flip flops. Literally not a one, and we pondered why this could be. It took two days of coming home with black feet for me to change into close-toed running shoes, and coincidentally, on that same day, Adam stubbed his toe on the uneven sidewalk and ripped part of his toenail off. Within a couple of days, we were a part of the norm and wore safer, cleaner shoes like everyone else.
Adventures in the United States
We ended up making four trips to San Diego; two were single-day excursions, while for the other two, we stayed at hostels for a short period. During all our trips, I'd guess we spent a total of about twelve hours waiting in line to cross the border from Mexico to California, which, if you've never done it, is a very interesting experience.
Extended Trip to San Diego #1
ITH Beach Bungalow Surf Hostel
The first hostel we stayed at was ITH Beach Bungalow Surf Hostel. We booked two spots in a six-person room and stayed for three days. We met so many interesting people, and after running errands all day, we would return to the hostel and spend the evenings around the fire chatting with people from around the world. It was the first time Adam and I had ever stayed in a hostel in the United States, and it made us realize that we should consider doing so in the future. There's such a cool social aspect to it that you don't get when staying in hotels or Airbnb's. Not to mention the hostel is located on the strand, so nights of watching sunsets and walking on the beach were awesome.
Downwind Marine Sailing Supply
This was also the trip where we acquired new lines from Downwind Marine Sailing Supply. We spent hours with Danny, who was incredibly patient and helpful as we essentially replaced all the running rigging for Atlantean. Adam had anticipated this task for months and figured he would do all the splicing himself. Adam has spliced many lines before and is excellent at it, so I had no doubt he could accomplish this task independently. At the end of the day, we purchased the lines and left the store with them. As we thanked and waved goodbye to Danny, he said, "I'm sure we'll see you again."
For those not familiar with splicing, it involves the intricate task of weaving rope back into itself. When you purchase lines, they typically come on spools with much more rope, and for sailing, you may need loops (called eyes) at the ends. Splicing is recommended over tying knots to preserve the strength of the lines. The difficulty and time required to master splicing depend on the material and size of the lines you are using and the type of splice you are creating, as there are many variations. Here is an image showing an example of a spliced line.
Day trip to San Diego
After returning to Ensenada with our new lines, Adam realized within two days that splicing Vectran is really quite difficult, time-consuming, and surprisingly physical. He had trouble with one of the eye splices, and it was also giving him back pain so we decided that another trip to San Diego was needed. However, this required making two more trips, as we would have to drop off the lines and then return later to pick them up. The next day, we rented a car, crossed the border, dropped off the lines, grabbed dinner, and drove back to Ensenada.
Extended Trip #2 and Final Trip to San Diego from Ensenada, Mexico
On our last and final trip, which was also the most exciting, we looked forward to staying in a hostel again. We went with California Dreams Hostel in Ocean Beach because it was closer to the area in which we would be running errands, plus we were able to get a private room. This hostel had a fantastically large kitchen with all the cooking equipment you could possibly ask for, and the bathrooms were spacious and very clean. I mentioned to Adam that it didn't have quite the same feeling of social comradery as the previous place, and his reply hit the nail on the head. He said, "Well, there's no firepit here, and nothing brings people together better than a firepit on a cold night."
However, we participated in paint night, where we used plants to make paintings, which was a lot of fun!
After picking up our beautiful and now professionally spiced lines from Downwind Marine, the only items we felt we still needed were a drone and spear guns. Adam discovered someone on Craigslist selling a DJI Mavic Air2S, and we arranged to meet him in a park parking lot to test it. He was on a break between meetings and was having a hard time unbinding the drone from his phone, so we ended up meeting him later in a Vons parking lot to complete the purchase after he was able to disconnect from the drone successfully.
While drones are indeed fascinating, it's time to dive into the uber exciting aspect of our San Diego shenanigans. It's important for us to maintain self-sufficiency while traveling on Atlantean, and a key element of this is supplementing our food supply by catching our own meals. Although we have fishing poles, we've often discussed how spearfishing would not only be an excellent physical activity but also a way to stock our freezer with nutritious protein.
Spear American San Diego
Consequently, we opted to visit Spear America San Diego, which proved to be an excellent decision. We spent a whole afternoon in the shop learning about spearfishing equipment and trying on wetsuits. Ryan Moore, the shop manager and co-owner, provided us with extensive information and was incredibly patient as we prepared ourselves and geared up for our around-the-world trip. We got two spear guns, both Pathos Laser Evo Carbons, one 90cm and one 110cm. We also got everything else we needed to be successful fish shooters.
We visited the shop on a Thursday, and while spending time with Ryan, he told us about a freediving course that FII was offering from Friday to Sunday (aka, the next day!). We felt it would be a shame to miss out on this opportunity, so after purchasing all our equipment, we returned to the hostel, extended the vehicle reservation and the hostel, and then registered for the course.
On Friday night, we returned to Spear America and met Andrew, the diving instructor, Robin, a seasoned freediver, and our classmate, Teegan. We spent a few hours in the upstairs classroom located inside the shop before heading home for the night.
Early the next morning, on Saturday, we came back to the classroom for a session from 7 to 12. After a short break, we regrouped for the pool segment of the lesson at the Salvation Army Kroc Center in San Diego. On this day, Adam held his breath for 2 minutes and 40 seconds during a static exercise!
On Sunday, the following day, we gathered at Kellogg Park in La Jolla Shores for the ocean segment of the course. Unfortunately, our fellow classmate was experiencing sinus problems, so he was absent, and the weather was quite rough. It was so severe that Andrew advised postponing the ocean portion to another day. After checking the weather, we agreed to reconvene on Tuesday, which meant extending our reservations once more. I'm thankful we made that decision because the ocean appeared much calmer on Tuesday, and the sun was shining.
FII Freediving
If you're interested in learning freediving, I suggest taking a course through FII, also known as Freediving Instructors International. This organization is renowned for its comprehensive and structured approach to teaching freediving.
Throughout the course, we delved into various aspects of freediving, including the proper form techniques and body positioning in the water. However, the most significant part of our training revolved around the critical knowledge of safety procedures that are essential for anyone engaging in this exhilarating sport. Adam and I learned about the importance of buddy systems and the various protocols to follow in case of an emergency. The emphasis on safety equipped us with the skills to handle potential risks and fostered a deeper sense of responsibility towards one another while we explore the underwater world.
After completing the course, we feel more confident in our abilities. Our understanding of safety measures allows us to ensure each other's safety during our trip, allowing us to enjoy our freediving adventures with peace of mind.
Sunset Cliffs Natural Park & Cabrillo State Marine Reserve
On Sunday, when the course got rescheduled, Adam and I visited Sunset Cliffs Natural Park and Cabrillo State Marine Reserve. We spent a couple of hours checking out the tidepools and exploring the incredibly beautiful landscape San Diego offers.
Spash Day!
Atlantean was gracefully reintroduced to her natural habitat on Wednesday, February 5, 2025. We took her out into the harbor for a test run with two Baja Naval employees to verify the correct installation of the packing gland. During this outing, the newly installed depth finder behaved erratically, and Adam noted that if it weren't functioning properly, we would need to bring Atlantean back out from the water. My heart sank momentarily because we were both eager to set off, but having a dependable depth finder is clearly essential. Luckily, Adam figured out the problem, and another haul out was avoided.
Prepping for Departure
In the days that followed, we concentrated on finishing boat projects and wrapping up our provisioning. We had lunch with Nani and were able to meet his beautiful wife. After lunch, she needed to leave, but Nani joined us back at the boat, and we took Atalntean out into the harbor. This was mostly to ensure the depth finder was working properly, but we also aimed to give Nani a glimpse of what it would be like should he choose to crew with us in the Sea of Cortez.
Day of Departure
On the morning of February 6, 2025, Adam chatted with fellow boaters on the dock outside our boat. We returned our marina key to Baja Naval and were seen off by our new friends.
Final Notes on our 60 days in Ensenada
Feeling the Rhythm
We hadn't intended to stay in Ensenada for such an extended period, but we were also acutely aware of the importance of avoiding strict plans that could lead to unnecessary stress and disappointment.
The allure of spontaneity is often what makes travel so enriching, allowing us to embrace the unexpected. Even though we had just departed from Los Angeles, we were already fully aware that tasks related to the boat tend to take longer than anticipated. The local markets, the tantalizing aromas of street food, and the warmth of the community are all what made the stay enjoyable.
Thus, we found ourselves settling into a rhythm that blended work and leisure, allowing us to enjoy the beauty of our surroundings while also addressing the practical needs of our boat. This balance between responsibility and the joy of exploration became a defining aspect of our time in Ensenada, teaching us the value of flexibility and the rewards of living in the moment, something we plan to do much, much more of.
Learning to Dance Again
I also want to emphasize that the most delightful part of this trip, so far, has been witnessing a new version of Adam emerge, one that I had not seen before. Ever since I met him, he has been navigating the complexities and demands of a high-pressure job, a role that has often weighed heavily on him. While he enjoyed his career, he frequently expressed his eagerness to break free from the burden of stress, yearning for a sense of liberation that seemed just out of reach.
However, upon our arrival in Ensenada, I was utterly amazed at how he transformed into a social butterfly almost overnight. It was as if a switch had been flipped, releasing him from the shackles of his daily grind. Suddenly, he was taking the initiative to start conversations with strangers, engaging with locals and fellow travelers with an infectious enthusiasm.
This newfound confidence and ease in social settings were striking; it was almost like he was shedding the layers of stress that had accumulated over the years. In a way, it's like he is decompressing from regular life, allowing himself the freedom to explore not just the beautiful surroundings but also the depths of his personality that work-related pressures had stifled. Witnessing this evolution has been heartwarming and a reminder of the profound impact that a change of scenery can have on a person's spirit and demeanor.
Have a nice and safe trip. I am glad your stay in Ensenada. I will give your regards to YoYo. Hope to see you after your globetrotting and see hoy you both became a more beautifil pair of butterflies. God speed.
Wow! Abbey this blog and information is great! Loved reading the details. You are a great writer and your photos are terrific! So happy you are enjoying the journey! I love you!
Ditto to Sally's comments. You write SOOOO well and it surely helps to have such interesting adventures, sights, and interactions to write about. Keep 'em coming Kiddo!!!! We LOOOVVVEEE them!
I just read your Ensenada blog and thoroughly enjoyed it!!
So beautifully written Abbey! Between the pictures and your narrative of your time in Ensenada it is almost possible to feel like we were there. It is so much fun following your travels and hearing about the adventures. Love to you both! ❤️